Sainte-Marie Island (Nosy Boraha)

History

The origin of the island's Malagasy name, "Nosy Boraha," is unclear. It means "Island of Abraham" or "Island of Ibrahim," likely referring to an ancient Semitic culture. The island was named Île Sainte Marie by European sailors when it became the main hideout for pirates in the Indian Ocean. From the 1680s to around 1720, these pirates dominated the seas around Africa. Among a population of Malagasy pirates that at its peak numbered nearly a thousand, there were English, Irish, French, Americans, and Jamaicans.

Later, another Frenchman, Jean-Onésime Filet "La Bigorne," was shipwrecked on Sainte Marie while fleeing the wrath of a jealous husband on Réunion. La Bigorne turned with remarkable success to Princess Bety, daughter of King Ratsimilaho. At their wedding, the happy couple received Nosy Boraha as a gift from the king, and the island was in turn presented to the mother country by La Bigorne (or rather placed under the protection of France by Queen Bety), which allowed France to obtain its first piece of Madagascar in 1750.

Here is the cliché of a tropical island with endless deserted beaches lined with coconut trees, bays protected from sharks by coral reefs, hills covered with lush vegetation, and fantastic whale watching in season. Although developed for tourism, this has been done with taste and discretion, and the island retains a traditional atmosphere: most hotels are small and feature rustic bungalows.

The island, located east of Soanierana-Ivongo, is 50 km long and 7 km at its widest point.

Nosy Boraha, much smaller but even more charming, is located just at the southern tip of the island. The only major town is Ambodifotatra; the other small villages consist mainly of bamboo and palm huts. The island is almost universally known as Sainte Marie—few use its Malagasy name: Nosy Boraha.

The best months to visit the island are June and mid-August to December, but good weather is possible at any time.

You can explore Sainte Marie on foot, by bike, motorcycle, or quad bike. In the low season, if you are fit and energetic, you can cover most of the island on foot or by bike.

At the southern tip of Sainte-Marie, there is a viewpoint from which you can see Île aux Nattes and admire the sunset.

In the far northeast, beyond the end of the road, there is an impressive natural pool with a waterfall, a large basin, and huge basalt rocks.

The beach is beautiful. The Albrand Lighthouse, built in 1931 to replace an iron tower built in 1906, is also located in the area.

It is worth taking a trip in a pirogue or sea kayak to explore the coast, particularly around the Ampanihy ForestAmpanihyForest to the east.

The pirates' cemetery is located just past the bay bridge, south of the city. A marked path leads to the cemetery. It is impassable at high tide, but you can cross by canoe.

It's quite an impressive place, with gravestones dating back to the 1830s, one of which is carved with a classic skull and crossbones.

Halfway across the bay bridge, the road passes by the tiny Îlot Madame (4.5 hectares), where Queen Bety's palace, also known as the governor's residence, was renovated as part of a cultural heritage project and turned into a museum.

Whale watching

The period from July to September is the best time to watch humpback whales, but you may also be lucky in June or October. You can watch them from any seaside hotel or take a boat trip (offered by most hotels and diving centers).

The highly active Cétamada association oversees whale and dolphin research and awareness-raising in the region, and ensures that operators comply with a code of conduct for whale watching: welfare guidelines concerning observation distance, boat speed, maximum observation time, approach angle, etc.

Every year in July, Sainte Marie organizes an impressive Whale Festival that lasts nine days and marks the beginning of the season. It includes a carnival, concerts with famous singers, dances and games, sports competitions, including running and mountain biking, exhibitions, school events, and film screenings.

The shallow waters around Sainte Marie are ideal for snorkeling and diving, although the coastal waters are overexploited.

Most coral reefs are in good condition and the water is generally clear, although some of the huge table corals have been broken by fish traps. The best snorkeling sites are near Atafana and La Crique, as well as west of Île aux Nattes; most hotels provide masks and fins for their guests.